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Sunday, August 29, 2010 

Day 8 - Wonderful Burgos

Fell asleep; too comfy, room too nice and too quiet, so now I'll fill in the bits of the rest of the day. 

The Médulas were defo a landscape hit and they also allowed us to get lost through some fun little twisty roads. One of the surprising qualities of the landscape was that there was a lot of greenery and wet muddy grounds all over the place thanks to the blessed shadow of the contorted chestnut trees that populated the area. It seems that in the autumn they close the park for two weeks or so so that the locals can gather the "castañas" for the products they prepare: from "cocido con castañas" to all kinds of sweets. 

Anyway, once we were out of the place and rolling on the motorway, the landscape started morphing slowly into wonderful planes of ochre and yellow patches littered with fractal brick villages (of the one-bell-tower or two-bell-towers kind depending on the wealth of the medieval Lord - which would include the presence of a Castilian castle - or the wealth of their trade - cereal, wine...). Another wonderful feature was the wind turbines, great wind farms scattered along the sometimes monotonous landscape, adorning the far horizons of pure blue and  foggy grey. Even the road saw a wealth of lorries carrying the humungous blades for the turbiens and other bits and pieces to build yet more of the modern windmills. No wonder Don Quixote thought these lands were populated by giants.

This would have blown D. Quixote's mind (just a little bit more)

A river, at last, green and fresh

So, we got to Burgos, big town, small river with wide green banks, bridges, broad shaded and elegant promenades, old style bookshops, antiquarian cafés, multicolored squares and a white and beautifully imposing cathedral to which al roads lead. Its musical portico is one to behold, as are many of the other details carved on its different sides. 

To the Cathedral
Wowness in white

























We walked around and upwards (again!) to the castle, to see the sunset and enjoy a bit of music. The touristy "chu-chu" train followed us so it could have been an idea to hop on, but Phil mentioned the words "rather dead than seen in...", so sod his foot sores, little pilgrim, you'll be flip-flopping through the town on your own two pretty legs (the photo of the beblistered chap complaining on the portico sums up the idea quite well). 

Going up to the castle
... he acquired some blisters ...
... but got to admire the sunset.

Our hotel, La Puebla, located in the street of the same name, was a little jewel. For 74€ we had a stylish place in the centre of the town; well equipped, huge bed where you can easily lose your partner, very quite despite the works outside, lovely decor and toilet (individual light on top of the shower to give your mornings that lovely feeling). Breakfast wasn't anything special but staff were very helpful and despite not having a record of our reservation - I'm sure I called! - they were able to find us a place. Parking was full at hotel so we left the car two minutes away in the Plaza Mayor parking (at 14€ per night, it was fair enough). 




Another highlight of the visit was the food. Despite the slow and moody service (maybe we weren't posh enough?), the food served at the "urban taberna" La Favorita was wonderful: tempura of artichokes, most lovely veggies, skewered fillet steak for Phil and "callos" with fried egg for me (yummy!). Somehow we managed to get lost on the way back and to get soaked in the hot and sudden storm that fell all through the night. 
... and with some yummy food, until the next stage, our bellies and souls are filled to the brim.

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