Tuesday, June 29, 2010 

Day 4 - Further along the North of Spain (careful, kittens enclosed)

We got up, had brekkie at the hotel - lovely coffee at last, after the thoroughly burnt stuff served in France. Then we walked into town, found the Musikene, where my sister studies in a really well located park with views over the bay (beautiful building too... described as an English style cottage but Phil could not see any Englishness in it).

Trying to find the Musikene on the map (behind me, duh!)

We knew there was the possibility to hire segways so we tracked down the shop: this took us to the market, to paseo de Salamanca and toashop with designer stuff - very nice kitchenware we thought...nope, it was not kitchenware, it was dildos of all shapes. Found the segway shop but 25€ for one hour was too much so we settled for yet another coffee overlooking the Kursaal, in the café at the theatre, next to the hotel we didn't go to, the Maria Cristina (thanks for the offer, dad,but 350€ per night is too much for what the room seemed to be). Finally, we visited the centre and walked back to the car park stopping in a mock English pub which happened to have better pintxos than the other places!

Lovely old fashioned shop, found on the way

The drive to Asturias was great. We stopped at Getaria and it certainly did not disappoint us. Home to Elcano, first to circumnavigate the globe, it was a sunny fishing port with twisty scenic roads and the softest and hottest of sands at it s feet. We didn't have the time to have a swim as in La Rochelle, but we took our shoes off and after skipping like fleas to the sea - yeah, the sand was very very hot, don't you believe me? - we walked through the waterline feeling awfully overdressed and getting some looks from the people on the beach. Was it our tan? Was it our "I'm so much of a tourist" casual style? Was it the fear of us taking photos of their boobs? Some of the people were possibly on the road to having rather wrinkly and raisin-like appendages or all sorts of skin cancer with such exposure to the sun at three in the afternoon. And no, we were not interested in photographing them, only the beauty of the day.

On the coastal road

Getaria

So, after the boobs and monuments of all shapes, we kept on driving, this time on the toll road which snaked through high mountains and wonderful seascapes. Phil thoroughly enjoyed playing with the car on the winding road and I didn't enjoy it that much (scenery was great but corners were too tight).

And, after the roads and roads, we find ourselves in the wonderful "Casona D'Alevia" (clicky for great photos of the house) hidden in a hamlet on the top of a mountain. At the moment we don't how high -or not -this and the mountains surrounding us are, as the clouds are covering them, but we took some scenic photos - of the mountains and the lovely locals (3 cats with flat faces that seemed interested in our movements).

We are somewhere up there

... I mean, up here (spot the tourist)...

... and in here (little window to the garden at the Casona)

The hotel and bedroom are so nice, decorated in ye olde style from the village, that we have decided to stay here, get a platter of cold meat and a bottle of wine and eat it in the small living room within our room. I may also mention that, at this stage, some parts of our body are showing sure signs of a tan. Phil is also developing a lovely colour in his driving arms. Bellies remain as white and big as usual. Unfortunately, these do not seem to have disappeared magically after three days of holidays.

I leave you with a photo of the "locals"... who looked positively evil...


...and who were coming to get us...


... but then completely lost interest...




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Sunday, June 13, 2010 

Day 3 - In Donostia / San Sebastian

Well; yesterday then... We got to Donostia. It was a bit of a traffic nightmare since the centre is very busy and may of its streets were closed due to the Fiesta Grande.... that, and the suicidal tourists and locals that decided to take their chances at a "tete-a-tete" with our pretty car.

We loved the landscape on the way here: we didn't have the time to stop at Hondarribia, which we only glimpsed from afar (and which looked lovely, perched on the side of a mountain over the sea). Pasaia, industrial port with the most incredible plunging and green fjord, and then Donostia, also mountainous with two great beaches, a cycling and walking town full of lovely French style buildings.

This is a country of cyclists; despite the enormous slopes, all our trip in the Basque country was dotted by semi-pro cyclists, many just kids training, the Indurains of the future, going steadily up hill without flinching.... oh, and, of course, one should also mention the all prevailing frontones for Pelota Vasca & cesta (canasta? dunno). In fact, we also spotted a couple of bullring dotted between cyclists and frontones. There were quite a number of ads for bullfights which gave us the impression the French Basque were a bit crazier than the Spanish Basque for toros.


(from our room)

My dad had proposed to pay for the Hotel Maria Cristina, favoured by the VIPs of the Cinema events that take place in Donostia on a yearly basis... the price though made us cough more than once, so I spared him the pocket pain by choosing something cute, not in the middle of the town and slightly different.

Our room in Hotel La Galería has just got views of the beach, situated under Monte Igueldo it is pretty much away from town, but that can only be a good thing given the mayhem of people down there. There's a lovely seaside walk that allows you to reach the other mountain in around twenty minutes walking, so it is not too bad. Parking was an absolute nightmare due to the "R" (resident) areas and the very-keen-to-fine traffic wardens which were on full bloom. Unfortunately the hotel had less than adequate parking space (as in, almost no space!) for parking, so we were too late to blag a little spot there. We got the Dali room and our views on the sea are thanks to the fact that the building next door was demolished at some point, yay!!!

(not the luxury of Hotel Mria Cristina but check out the angelical sleepy face!)

For dinner we walked to the old town - with the rest of the town it seems, as the streets were packed. On the beach, the people were busily hiring chairs and sitting looking to the same point. We could not fathom what all that was about until we got to the end of the promenade, closed an surrounded by police guarding mysterious black containers, like little urns, closed with tin foil which were... FIREWORKS! Seeing the amount of explosive material stored there, it was going to be a damn big display. As part part of the Semana Grande, the council brings on each day of the week a different firework team from Valencia and Castellón. Also, on the promenade, there were lots of music shows, many put on by the council... a full regalia of events all around us.


(here's a photo from somewhere over the promenade - starting to get gloomy)

The firewroks were just great; Phil thought the show would last five minutes or so, so when we got off the taxi that took us back to hour hotel - with a very informed driver who just told us the story of every single building on our way - he did not bother really to run to the seaside to watch them; ah, thou were lacking faith, my friend, Semana Grande fireworks should be of at least one hour, which was the case... so we had time to go and sit out with the rest of Donostia, on the beach.

All in all, quite a nice end of the day, apart from the pintxos; crowded, greasy and disappointing. Of course we didn't go to the best pintxos places because they were too crowded (the guide seemed to mention that the crowded ones were the best, of course, but if they are crowded, how the hell are you to reach the food?). I got to taste the "txacoli", typical drink which was basically the same as a slightly sparkly white wine. It was a bit of a shame as I had expected to find some sort of cathedral of food, but ended up in a repetition of Calle de la Estrella (if you are from Coruna, you'll know). Ah, and before I forget, we also saw a pasacalles with cabezudos who were hitting the public with pig's bladders. So I had to take Phil away before he reacted violently - can you imagine him trying to K.O. a cabezudo? - and we hid at the door of the church of San Sebastian, a very fitting name for the town, of course.

So I will leave you there, imagine us both hiding away in a portico while the scary cabezudos just did what they do best and Phil got really annoyed at this display of traditional stuff that would not go down well in the UK. Next day, a bit more Donostia and then on the road again!

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Friday, June 04, 2010 

Day 3 - sleepy thoughts from the car


So I left you a long time ago on "Day 3" on the road... well, as in ON a surface, which happened to be a ROAD but not implying any movement ON/AT/ACROSS/THROUGH or anywhere else that surface... and there you were thinking that we were cruising through winding glorious national roads that snake between sea and mountain...

Yes; it was my idea to take the scenic detour, but I had not taken on account the fact that these were the roads that took the populace to the sea and that this populace would be formed of southern French and Spaniards driving like nutters and making sure that they left a lingering souvenir of crap traffic behind.

But again I am jumping ahead of myself; I left the last page somewhere near Bordeaux, when the heat was still semi-bearable and the landscape too. Such was the itch of the sun on my skin that I had to beg Phil to put the roof up - anathema for the convertible driver: what? a ray of sun and the roof still on?. I wrapped myself in a towel as I am pretty sure that even though factor fifty cream may keep cancer away from you - and any possi
ble suitors - it does not keep your skin from feeling the burning sensation; only a further piece of clothing (and a thick one at that) can accomplish this, and, alas, I had none.

The landscape of the Landes was so dull that, adding to the long straight dull road and the dull slap of the heat, I dull-y spent most of the trip nodding off and feeling as if someone had hit me with a shovel.

Such is the feeling of my eyes at the moment; not a shovel but a teaspoon, on each eye, going "pock" when hitting, and thus I should sleep, so I will tell you about the Basque bullfight, the mountain, the coast, the crap traffic, the worse traffic and the arrival to Donostia a bit later on as, at the moment, I am falling asleep!




p.s. the road through the Landes was so mindumbingly boring and the landscape so unbelievably dull that here's a photo of geese and their geeslings to entertain you and cheer you up till the next report .

XMAS3

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