Historias de la Gran Patranha: August 2010

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Day 8 - Wonderful Burgos

Fell asleep; too comfy, room too nice and too quiet, so now I'll fill in the bits of the rest of the day.

The Médulas were defo a landscape hit and they also allowed us to get lost through some fun little twisty roads. One of the surprising qualities of the landscape was that there was a lot of greenery and wet muddy grounds all over the place thanks to the blessed shadow of the contorted chestnut trees that populated the area. It seems that in the autumn they close the park for two weeks or so so that the locals can gather the "castañas" for the products they prepare: from "cocido con castañas" to all kinds of sweets.

Anyway, once we were out of the place and rolling on the motorway, the landscape started morphing slowly into wonderful planes of ochre and yellow patches littered with fractal brick villages (of the one-bell-tower or two-bell-towers kind depending on the wealth of the medieval Lord - which would include the presence of a Castilian castle - or the wealth of their trade - cereal, wine...). Another wonderful feature was the wind turbines, great wind farms scattered along the sometimes monotonous landscape, adorning the far horizons of pure blue and foggy grey. Even the road saw a wealth of lorries carrying the humungous blades for the turbiens and other bits and pieces to build yet more of the modern windmills. No wonder Don Quixote thought these lands were populated by giants.

This would have blown D. Quixote's mind (just a little bit more)

A river, at last, green and fresh

So, we got to Burgos, big town, small river with wide green banks, bridges, broad shaded and elegant promenades, old style bookshops, antiquarian cafés, multicolored squares and a white and beautifully imposing cathedral to which al roads lead. Its musical portico is one to behold, as are many of the other details carved on its different sides.

To the Cathedral

Wowness in white

We walked around and upwards (again!) to the castle, to see the sunset and enjoy a bit of music. The touristy "chu-chu" train followed us so it could have been an idea to hop on, but Phil mentioned the words "rather dead than seen in...", so sod his foot sores, little pilgrim, you'll be flip-flopping through the town on your own two pretty legs (the photo of the beblistered chap complaining on the portico sums up the idea quite well).

Going up to the castle

... he acquired some blisters ...

... but got to admire the sunset.

Our hotel, La Puebla, located in the street of the same name, was a little jewel. For 74€ we had a stylish place in the centre of the town; well equipped, huge bed where you can easily lose your partner, very quite despite the works outside, lovely decor and toilet (individual light on top of the shower to give your mornings that lovely feeling). Breakfast wasn't anything special but staff were very helpful and despite not having a record of our reservation - I'm sure I called! - they were able to find us a place. Parking was full at hotel so we left the car two minutes away in the Plaza Mayor parking (at 14€ per night, it was fair enough).

Another highlight of the visit was the food. Despite the slow and moody service (maybe we weren't posh enough?), the food served at the "urban taberna" La Favorita was wonderful: tempura of artichokes, most lovely veggies, skewered fillet steak for Phil and "callos" with fried egg for me (yummy!). Somehow we managed to get lost on the way back and to get soaked in the hot and sudden storm that fell all through the night.

... and with some yummy food, until the next stage, our bellies and souls are filled to the brim.

Labels: Burgos, cathedral, holidays, Hotel La Puebla, La Favorita, road trip, Spain, travel

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Sunday, August 08, 2010

Day 7 - August, almost a year ago at Las Médulas

Right: we have spent the weekend with the family and Phil has survived - he has even been showing off his Spanish skills, "bonding" with my dad and my mum. The "bonding with my dad" bit was enforced by the fact that the sofa Phil was sitting on broke under him (who ate all the pies? or should I say... who ate all the "empanadillas"?). The rest of the bonding was due to the swimming pool where the three of them splashed, floated and swam (maybe it is Free Willy rather than Moby Dick...hum, sounds so wrong).

My dad's b'day went well - everyone ate lots of ridiculously overpriced fish - and Phil and I got by on a tiny ration of "raxo". Then, the next day, lunch with my grandad in Phils favourite "hood"; Barrio de las Flores. Such was his involvement in the events, that he got to finish his thumping big book in the 2 days.

So, loads of extended coffee and "sobremesa" with the family, beer with friends and steak for dinner at home with mum and dad (they had bought enough steak to feed a small army). And then, on the road again to Las Médulas, the range of Roman gold mines set in the frontier between Galicia and Castilla León.

The motorway to the place was empty, so it took us around two hours and a half to get there. Then, after some discrepancies with the sat nav, we got to the parking and there, wisely covered ourselves in suncream and donned our hats, as it was as hot as hell: 1 pm at Las Médulas in August was like the wild wild west, above all with the amazing red crags, mountains,c aves and random formations which crop up in every corner, as in the Valley of the Gods in Denver - with a Latin flavour.

We ate my granny's empanadillas under a chestnut tree - thank god for those! The difference in temperature between shadow and sun was certainly noticeable. We did walk around 2 km., taking the short route to two of the main caves; La Cuevona and La Encantada, and that was long enough to make me believe I had acquired a new ailment: sudden death caused by walking exertion. I sooo need to get fit...

After a fresh Coke in a rather shady touristy bar, we drove to the Mirador de Orellán. Making sure up there that we left the car parked with lots of handbrake, we walked the longest 0.6 km to the top...

(are we there yet?)

Thankfully, there was an absolutely worth and amazing view from the end of the road over the whole conglomerate of the Médulas. An amazing eerie landscape of red and green, the leftovers, shreds and bits left of a majestic mountain eroded and exploded by hand, with water, by the Romans. Next time we visit the Médulas, perhaps just going to the Mirador can do the trick - you can even visit one of the galleries inside the mountain there, but itwas closed for lunch. Nevertheless, avoid visiting the place from 13:00 to 15:00; no wonder it is a desert! (green, but desert nevertheless).