Sunday, July 11, 2010 

Day 5 - last leg of the first part of our trip


Alevia was like travelling back in time. The evening amusement for the villagers seemed to be to check out the new stallion "in the hood" in the main square (plot of grass with big tree in the middle), and then went for a chato de vino in the only bar in the village. The horse was still there in the morning; they had found a snug strip of grass for him next to the old church... on the best spot with a view. He has now been immortalised in one of the photos our our trip, see below, taken by Phil as I was not on photographing mood.


... and this was the view behind him...


So, when we woke up, the skies had cleared and we could ascertain that we were certainly pretty high up (as per the photo above). The view still magnificent, the bill fine (85€ for our room and a magnificent yummy brekkie was pretty fair), the car still there, waiting for us, and the day lovely...

Thus, we set off towards Galicia. Curvy road on the way down from Alevia and curvy road all through the mountains - we have GPS photo to prove the crazy orography of the area.


Phil loved the drive, I endured it (not feeling too well). Through amazing crevasses, cut by rivulets and wild plants, some of walls surrounding us were sweating water and moss. The rock was grey, white, reddish at times, and stood up in the worst climber-defying of shapes.


The view from the mirador at Poo de Cabrales - chosen because I thought it would be fine to take Phil to a place called "poo"... childish but ever so endearing... - was rather incredible. The vertical panettone of the Naranco de Bulnes, highest mountain of the peaks and one of the highest in Spain, appeared surrounded by other mountains and valleys, and the walls around it were spotted with caves and specks of snow... lovely!


From there, we were supposed to go to the Cuevas del Agua, to see the Cuevona, where you can drive through a natural tunnel, but somehow the GPS missed the trick and directed us straight away to the motorway - maybe it was trying to tell us something.

My mum had told us to get to Coruna by 3 so that we could go out on the boat with my uncle. Only that our planned time of arrival was 6, so we declined the invitation. Somehow, though, the kilometres seemed to fly past with the lovely view of the sea on one side and the mountains on the other, with the damn heat falling on us and my resilient wish to keep the roof of the car put in place as shelter... ah, the heat, the heat, too much to bear - and yes, I would have also complained had it been raining.

So, somehow, we drove so quickly and my uncle was so late that we did get to Coruna for four ish and he was waiting for us on the boat, but at that stage I was feeling so ill that as soon as I stepped on the pontoons at the port, all the world seemed to just be moving too much, so we just touched base on Santa Cruz, in the lovely new house specially kitted for us by my mum, while my sister, friend, and uncle, boated along.

As soon as I got home, I went straight to bed (it didn't move, yay!), Phil got to wash the car, drive my mum around (she adored the little car), then he swam with my parents in the swimming pool (a scene worthy of Moby Dick) and seemingly, my uncle and co. on the boat got to the middle of nowhere in the ocean and had to be rescued as they run out of petrol... so am glad we didn't join them.

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Thursday, April 22, 2010 

Day 3 - On the road to Donostia

Mission accomplished; day 2 is over. Woke up at seven, had a bath in our colonial bathtub, overlooked by photos of uptight XIXth century families including scary fat baby with white hat and dress. We went up to the Café la Paix and the 6€ brekkie surrounded by a bunch of old locals who were reading their newspapers, discussing about politics, sipping their cafés and generally pursing their lips á la francaise.

(this was the side overlooking the street, the locals were shunning the sun, well at the back)

A wonderful lamp most suitable for early morning illumination

voici our 6€ breakfast; bigger than the table we were sitting at

Once fed, we plodded over the ramparts and voilá the beach des .......... (not too sure), all for ourselves - well, and for the rest of people there, but we were just a few, less than 20 total as it was quite early still; total heaven

I ventured in the water and managed to convince Phil to follow. It is not that he dislikes water; he was jealously watching me paddle and float (at the height of my technique in swimming - almost like my mum's) but he had forgotten his swimming costume. Not sure whether he got the "we are going to the beach" bit this morning. So, we proceeded to get his trousers off, underwear off, modesty covered by towel, like in that epic chapter from Mr Bean, then put his shorts again (trousers) and voilá, swimming costume ready. He did swim to the buoy and I guess his pockets did get quite full of water, but it was well worth it.

Ou yea, this is the view I couldn't see while swimming because I'm blind as a bat.

So, back to the hotel, quickly washed the sand off, tidied the sea shells gathered for friends, packed and, well, off we went, with a baguette and saucisson in the boot for the next "aire" and currently roasting in the car (not sure if the factor 50 cream is going to work... such hardship)


Bye bye Maison du Palmier, bye bye La Rochelle, and hello road!




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Saturday, October 31, 2009 

Been there Done That - Day 1

DAY 1

Our plants will be dead when we return, but this holiday is well worth the life of the couple of semi-defunct cacti that are decorating our mantelpiece.

We woke up at 5 (figure that, I didn't even have to be kicked out of the bed for this), got on the road at 6 with the sun, and eventually arrived to Dover well before our ferry was due.

On the road from home to the port, the fog was so thick, it could have been sliced with a knife and spread on toast. After half an hour of cautious driving in the foggiest of fogs, somewhere in Surrey the "intelligent" panels on the road kindly reminded us motorists that there was some sort of fog hazard around (thanks for the tip, guys). In the deep haze, the sun looked spooky and unreal, like a round cheese floating in the sky, slowly changing colour to a potent yellow disk. No wonder the Mayans had the jitters every time the heavenly bodies behaved funny, on a day like this they would have been rushing to their pyramids to start a sacrifice binge.

Still, Dover did receive us with less and less of that fog, and we were able to check out the famous white cliffs (I had been banging about this for a long time now and can tick the box of being there and doing that at last). Unfortunately, only the white cliffs were worth it; Dover, at least the way to the port, was ehm....

... nice or what?

Of course we were not sorry to leave the country after this view. Do they do it on purpose to discourage immigration? We hoped things looked brighter, warmer, nicer on the other side. And well, they did start looking much better from the boat... white cliffs bye byeeee!


We reached Calais in 2 hours; long flat beaches, blue sea, concrete blocks & towers... just like a Spanish seaside resort in grey. In fact, right after the big sign indicating CALAIS (in case you had gotten on the wrong boat), we were welcome by the wonderful view of "BooZers, Spirit of Calais" a shopping centre designed for the classy tourist.


Yes, it didn't look any prettier on the other side. Thankfully, the road took us away from the concrete-hole of Calais avoiding as much of it as possible. And now it did start feeling like a holiday - roof down, warm weather, tidy fields of grain with big rolled-up, lined-up, stacks of hay, and long, straight, empty motorways. Finding our way was so smooth that we wondered how travel was possible before the advent of the Tom-Tom. Kinder Bueno & Lion Bar for lunch (melted before reaching the mouth).

After the absolute rip-off péage (for the long empty motorways aforementioned), we hit Le Havre. Not as horrendous as Calais, jewel of the crown, only because it seems like a functional industrial port - thus with industrial stuff, not masqueraded with a sheen of cheapo tourist make-up. Also, extra points to it for not having a BooZer supermarket for its most wonderful bridge (rip-off part 2 but wonderful structure!)



(20 degrees; 13:45, 5€ to cross)


Stopped for petrol just before the entrance of Le Havre 52€ for a life-saving tankfull of the black stuff - we had just depleted the last drop in the tank! Phil changed to flip-flops and decided to drive bare-footed, what a hippie. Also noted the unmanliness of wearing sea-sickness bracelets, but better safe than sorry!

Further péage and all the cows seem to be sleeping siestas under trees, thirsty for the shadow, what a life.


We arrived pretty fast to Mt. St. Michel; not worth stopping anywhere around a motorway anyway. In fact, we arrived early than predicted so the 1 hour queueing to get from one side of the parking to the other side and our specific spot didn't bother us that much. Of course finding our spot took us a couple of "bon, bof, behs" with pouted mouth from the parking attendants who were more concerned about their cigarettes than sorting the stagnant traffic situation.



We enjoyed the majestic presence of the Mont over our heads and the priceless people spotting (all the annoying ones were Mediterraneans, doh!). Then, it took us almost another hour to find the hotel - well, me running up and down the alleys and stairs in the Mont, which are many and of different shapes and widths, fighting against the hordes of baby prams, slow tourists, old tourists, tourists taking photos and tourists choosing cards or calling Manolo!!! while blocking the road, and Phil sitting with the luggage in a corner.

Granted, I should have known where I was going, planned as I had all the trip, but so it happens that to get the key to our room we had to go to a hotel which was not our hotel (get it?) and then they would give us they key and show us the way... which was through a shop, through the shop's back door, trawling through dresses and corridors full of boxes, and up a spiral and dark staircase.

So, seeing the "magnificent" entrance, I was already expecting the worse. And, voilá, our room, in a sort of turret whose entry is actually at the very top of the Mont (well, almost under the abbey), you just have to get lost a bit to find it, then go down some quirky stairs and alleys, and before you get to the cemetery, a little door: Logis St. Sebastian; go downstairs to the bottom through that spiral staircase (yes, the one that ended in the backroom of a shop), and there we were! On a room facing the main street (I feel like opening the window and emptying the contents of the bedpan on the tourists), so narrow one can almost see inside the rooms of the building opposite, the Hotel le Mouton Blanc (in fact, the main hotel, where you get the key for the Logis - are you lost yet?).

Hurray! found the door!

And this is the street leading from our place to the main street...

So, Le Mouton Blanc, we didn't try their food but had a lovely lunch on a terrace on the remparts, well, dinner, for 18€ each, not bad! And the room was 55€ which is pretty good for a night at the heart of the Mont (hey, tick the box, been there done that).



Unfortunately, we are too tired to see the Mont lit up (well, it was past nine and it wasn't getting dark, so we just gave up). We feel like an elderly couple, flossing our teeth together in a room with separate beds, at 9.30 in the evening and all ready to go to bed and... sleep. Sod the lights on the Mont, we are not made for such adventures, and the stairs are a killer. Still, we love this place, room big, clean, well located, big bathroom with the basics (in wonderful seventies blue), high beamed ceilings, fireplace (not working, of course), crap telly in a corner and bargain price. Plus, add the charm of being hidden away in a secluded tower and the fact that you can spit at tourists from your window and they will never be able to find you. Bargain!

So, night night, leave you with a lovely view...


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